Allan Silliphant's Anachrome Shooting and Processing Proceedures. It is our intention to make semi-automatic plug-ins for Photoshop & patent them, so we can only discuss some of the basic technique at this time.

SHOOTING PHASE:

An  important  concept is the  "Stereo Window".  Think of it as a big picture  FRAME existing in the same  REAL SPACE as the
subject or objects in your picture.  Put the FRAME into  perceived  reality.  The FRAME will DEFINE  where  an imaginary  WINDOW
exists, into the otherwise perfect barrier between  "picture reality" and your world!

Parts can extend forward but should not intersect the FRAME. For example, a person could point at the camera  with one hand, and if they don't touch the FRAME, the hand will  enter the space IN-FRONT of the WINDOW (FRAME).

PROCESSING PHASE: 

WHEN FINISHED...FLATTEN THE IMAGE LAYERS...TO LOCK IT UP!

DETAILS  BELOW:

Use ADOBE PHOTOSHOP. Set the LEFT picture on the work screen to the RIGHT of the RIGHT camera image. (very important to do this correctly)
Try to "cross view" the 2 images into a stereo view, by having them side by side (Right view on Left).Looking at the LEFT IMAGE WITH YOUR RIGHT EYE, & VISA VERSA-             When you see stereo, there will appear to be 3 distinct images. In the center: THE STEREO IMAGE, with a flat image on either side.                            
"CURVES". It is one of the options found under Image> adjustments, and it controls the RGB color levels, one color at a time. After finishing the left image, filter the RIGHT
VIEW with "curves". This time remove the red channel. The remaining image with be balanced for CYAN, (which is the EQUAL  mixture of BLUE & GREEN)
and contain all the spectrum except RED. There are tricks that allow some areas to be selected for preservation of some RED in the CYAN image such as RED lipstick , dreses or RED bright car paint. When the RED is preserved in the cyan channel, by using outline "lasso" and filtering in the "inverse" mode Which is in the "SELECT" column,  the same object in the left image  should be outlinined  and partially de-saturated, while adding grey scale detail to the red object or garment,  by using the contrast  function or by gamma level changes  (found in the "IMAGE" column).Try to keep the RED from bleaching to a "BALD" look.  You must check the result with both eyes open, and fine tune the effect.

(for Anachrome Glasses only applications, you can go nuts with the RED, creating a convincing RGB look! ...see below)

The more you are able to overlay the RED portion of the image, the more RED you can leave in terms of saturation. The final look of the RED detail comes
from a combination of a some remaining RED in the right (CYAN COMPONENT) OVERLAID ON  the (RED COMPONENT). If you compose the picture to have the RED
element in the image EXACTLY AT THE WINDOW in DEAD-ON REGISTER...You can leave a lot of RED in the final image. Of course you'll need our
ANACHROME GLASSES to get the best effect. Don't try this with paper glasses as you'll have no way to judge the balance between the two elements.
Strangely, more RED that you see as such comes from the small amount in the right eye. It is mixed in the brain to turn the bald "watermelon" RED of the LEFT to a much more vivid value.   I suppose the brain is reassured in seeing some RED in both eyes. Any any case it works AMAZINGLY well, if done right!

REMEMBER...ALL NON-ANACHROME GLASSES KILL TOO MUCH RED IN THE RIGHT (CYAN)  EYE...INSIST THAT YOUR CLIENT USE  ANACHROME     PLASTIC GLASSES OR OUR SPECIAL FORMULA PAPER/GEL FILTER  GLASSES. These glasses are made in limited  numbers, so the cost is  $250  per thousand on a special  minimum order basis.That is still far cheaper than our fine plastic glasses! Please don't use the very poor conventional   "over-kill" viewers, using the "traditional" formula. Good color anaglyphs don't exist  except when the right glasses are used. Of course, Anachrome glasses are  backward compatible  to standard anaglyph. Really bad anaglyphs can look bad with our glasses too! .

      ( Now,back to the basic work)

3. After the two images are filtered they should be overlaid on eachother. Use the move function in tools to do this drag operation . Do this with steady motion while holding down the   left  mouse button. Check to see if there are any rotation problems, and fix  the with the rotate image funtion, while seperated, fix the difference   in one of the images and again overlay.Try to align   the main subject, so that a few elements can come though the screen if they don't intersect the frame of the window.  Most doubled images should be seen in the  background, where they give a  comfortable depth effect if not too far apart!

FINALLY...CROP  to eliminate any RED or CYAN borders.

Don't  forget to use, and if you choose, SELL genuine Anachrome glasses on your site...it will make a big difference in the final effect.

ANACHROME PROCESS CLASSES: 

We offer one day (6 hour) classes in Los Angeles and Las Vegas. Stay in a large Vegas area hotel suite midweek for about $30 per night. Classes are $150 including use of a good computer.

Anachrome 3D Group
(818) 399-974
in Simi Valley CA

e-mail contact Sharper3D@Yahoo.com

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